Northern Greece has escaped so far, but the area north of Athens is in flames. It is never clear how these fires start. Arson is certainly a factor. High temperatures can be another trigger. A third might be smoking. I have noticed lately that a lot of people smoke in their cars, often with the windows open, and although I haven’t witnessed it, I feel sure many drivers and passengers throw lit cigarettes out of their cars.
One of the pleasant aspects of life here in the summer is the coastal vessels that take us into town. I enjoy walking from the port into Ladadika and heading for a cooling pint in the Dubliner. But the fare!!! In 2022 a single fare was €5 and the return, I think, €7. Last year the fare was €7 single. I can’t remember the return fare. This year the companies have gone too far. As ever, in Greece, cartels control the country. Cosmote controls the other mobile companies so there is no real competition. The same with the boats. The four companies running the service are now charging €10 for a single and €16 for a return. In other words, the single has gone up 100% in two or three years. It seems that people have voted with their feet. I can’t find any local information, but two companies have stopped operating. Contrast the boat fare with the bus. €16 return compared with €2.20. Moreover, the buses have reduced fares for students and pensioners. I’d rather endure the heat and discomfort of the bus than let the boat owners take the piss.
Talking about heat, this is the hottest summer we’ve had in years. I think it’s too hot for the mosquitos! Today temperatures reached 38oC. We’ve had some gentle breezes, but the heat has been unrelenting. Often, after a day of high temperatures, you can sit on your balcony and watch the lightning flash across the sky while calculating how far away it is by counting the seconds between thunderclaps. Not this year. Just heat.
The summer has not been without its casualties. An 8-year-old girl has died in a campsite. Four people have drowned in the past couple of days. And the most famous British casualty has been Dr. Michael Mosley, who died in Symi in June. He had decided to go for a midday walk. His body was found five days later. In the words of Noel Coward’s song, only “mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.” Mosley is a sad loss. His BBC programs on reversing Type 2 diabetes were entertaining and informative.
The heat has created one additional problem in Halkidiki. The smell of shit. Most places in Halkidiki have no sewerage. The effluent of the affluent and the poor goes into a cesspit, known in Greek as a βόθρος. Daily, tankers come round and suck the shit from the cesspits. The smell lingers while this is happening and then gradually fades away, but this year the smells have persisted. Tourism has increased*, and I think people must be taking more showers to cool down, resulting in shit floating nearer to the surface. The first time I went to a Greek campsite in the late 70s, I had an urgent need to go to the toilet. As I approached the toilets I was overcome with the worst stench I had ever smelt, so foul that I couldn’t go in. I started to look for a quite spot where I could unite with nature, but the campsite was too busy. Eventually, I had to go in. Spotlessly clean toilets. At the time my Greek wasn’t good enough to ask for or understand an explanation, so the βόθρος remained a mystery for nearly 20 years.
Tomorrow is the Assumption, a huge religious festival and a public holiday here. It’s not just the Marys who’ll be celebrating but the Panagiotes, Panagiotas, Marioses, Despoines… a lot of phone-calls.
* Although, tourism has increased, one thing I have noticed is that Ukrainian vehicles have all but disappeared. I have seen only two or three all summer, whereas they were ubiquitous in 2022 and 2023.